Because of the balance of the Sovereign many users move the control box from infront of the "s" section of the the rod to below the arm cup to help give a better over all balnce to the detector. One disadvantage of doing this is that the toggle to go from Disc. to all metal is no longer that easy to access. Here is method to over come this from "Gord SW Ont"

I hope the attached four pictures are what you are looking for. I've optimized them for the Web.   

SWoverall.jpg is an overall view of the installation the way I normally use it for land hunting.    SWoverall2.jpg is an overall view with the box off the detector. It shows the Radio Shack six foot cord with mono mini plugs on each end (which is normally wrapped around the slide mount) and you can see the slide mount that I got from Ralph at SunRay who uses it for his Sov probe control box. I hunt this way in shallow water with my Sov fully encased in a plastic bag and the box with the remote switch in a baggie (you rarely have to change the Sov's controls other than the all metal /disc switch).  

SWcloseup1.jpg is a closeup of the jack on the Sov control box.  SWcloseup2.jpg is a closeup of the switch on the remote box. You can also see a metal clip I added underneath the box so it can be mounted on a belt or strap. If you don't want the remote switch you just remove everything and it's almost a "virgin" (grin) Sov. The only thing on it is the almost unnoticeable jack which doesn't interfere in any way with the normal operation of the detector if it is installled per my posted instructions.You can see my post on the BBS forum for the other details. That last post is a cut & paste of several previous posts I've made on the various forums and in reply to several e-mails asking for details. I apologize for it's somewhat jumbled nature. I may post these on the BBS forum if I get the chance.

I just wanted to add that this doesn't add any weight. You can use a much smaller box as it's virtually empty. I chose the larger one because of the size of SunRay's slide mount and the fact I wanted to be sure I got it close to my finger on the grip. It is very easy to flick back and forth. You can also mount the switch in the handle itself but still use the jack so it can be easily disconnected (versus being permanently wired) so you can remove the control box, etc. You might need a smaller switch than I used though.

HERE IS SOME ADDITIONAL TEXT SUPPLIED TO ME FROM gORD TO HELP ANWER SOME QUESTIONS HE IS BEING ASKED.

This is a cut and paste of several messages I've posted in the past:

I used several suggestions on the various forums to finalize my approach.

I mount the control box of my Sov XS-2 Pro under the armrest with the controls at the back  and I shallow water hunt so I wanted a remote switch that was removeable from the shaft and had a long enough cable to be mounted on my body as well as on the shaft. Some people permanently mount the switch to the shaft which makes a real functional unit.

I ended up putting a open circuit 1/8 inch 2 conductor jack (Radio Shack part # 274-251 though I'm not sure this info helps you over there) next to the cable input on the control box (just about where Kellyco puts their mode switch). It attaches to the switch inside the control box - just solder the wires across the leads to the switch. NOTE THAT THIS WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY. I mounted another similar jack to one end of a 6"x2"x1" black plastic box - # 270-1804 (a 4" long box will also work). On the other end of the box I mounted a SPST micromini switch (# 275-624) internally connecting the jack with the switch. I connect the two jacks externally with a six foot pre-made cable with 1/8 inch mono plugs on both ends ( # 42-2420). The plastic box can be taped to the shaft under the meter but I ordered the slide mount that Ralph of SunRay uses on the box of his S-1 probe and just slip it on where the control box was originally mounted. Obviously depending on your specific requirements you can change as desired.

The remote switch can be a real improvement and it has worked great for me! First, it lets me mount the control box under the arm rest for better balance (I even like it better than hip mounting because it counter-balances the 10 inch coil which is a little heavy if no box is on the shaft even though the shaft itself is lighter). Secondly, my normal method of searching relies on hunting in disc and then checking in all metal. The all metal mode helps me pinpoint the target better so I can disc more accurately with the BBS "wiggle" (find many of my older coins this way). Also lets me eliminate some junk targets, such as nails, etc especially at higher sensitivity levels because the target center differs in disc vs all metal (so rapidly switching back and forth will indicate junk if the target center moves by a couple of inches or so). And thirdly, I used to have to reach back awkwardly to do the switching from disc to all metal and it was tiresome so I'd end up not checking the targets out thoroughly enough - this caused some extra aches & pains and I'd also end up unnecessarily digging junk targets that could have been easily eliminated. So it's paid off for me.

It works even in shallow water hunting. I chest mount the control box which is covered in a plastic bag. The only control I use is the disc/all metal switch (all the other settings are stable and don't usually need adjusting). My fingers get wet and water can puddle on top of the plastic and possibly leak in but the new switch fixes that. I can mount it anywhere and totally enclose the control box.

The switch on the control box should be set to the "all metal" mode when the remote switch is connected. Then when the remote switch is closed the machine is in the disc mode - when it is open you're in the all-metal mode.

When you disconnect the remote switch your Sov works just as it originally did.

I placed my jack next to the cable connector to the coil. My Sov does not have the single/multi tone toggle switch that is exclusive to some of the Kellyco machines but I mentioned that as it lets people know kinda where I put it. If you have this switch you may have to mount the jack on the other side of your cable connector. You will have to drill the case (but the plastic seems to drill quite easily). However, be real careful when you select the location ... check it carefully when you take the unit apart so that it fits without hitting anything inside. I believe I had to solder the wire onto the jack first so I could guide it to the back of the case (cause you can't solder it once it's mounted to the case).

Also be careful with the aluminum shield that surrounds the unit inside .. it is connected to the circuit board by a ground wire. If you have to detach it in order to give you some room, which I think you will, just remember to reconnect it.

It really wasn't very difficult but you have to take your time and not be too rough (it's not a car engine <grin>). Also when you solder the wires from the jack to the internal switch (or even to it's wires which are unshielded) don't heat it for too long as you wouldn't want to damage an sensitive electronic parts.

- the rear connector, circuit board, aluminum shield and faceplate (with the switches & dials) are all connected as one piece. To separate it from the box you remove the screws at the rear connector which goes to the coil. Some people have found that the best way to separate the pieces is to remove a switch knob (say the threshold switch). First rotate it fully counterclockwise and note where the mark is. Pull the knob off gently as it's friction fit. Put a small piece of cloth on the shaft to prevent marring it and gently pull it with a pair of pliers. This may not be necessary if yours is loose but it usually sticks a little and people that pry it with a screw driver have been known to damage the edge of the face plate. When you replace the knob make sure the mark is at approximately the same place.

- It is nice to be able to totally separate the pieces to drill the hole in the box and on mine there was a pair of wires which connected the battery compartment to the circuit board. I believe it used a small plastic connector which can be disconnected from the circuit board (just remember the orientation of it ... it only connects one way). Make sure you reconnect it when you  reasssemble everything. I'm not sure how the Kellyco installed mode switch is connected so you'll have to figure that one out.

- when you drill the hole make sure you check the location out carefully so you don't interfere with anything on the circuit board. This is quite important and I used the existing connector hole as a guide. Also note the odd shape of the plastic box ... as I recall the battery portion is molded in with two channels on either side which go to the back. I think I had my wire to the jack go down one of these channels??? You'll have to carefully figure out exactly where to put the jack.