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Hunting
Iron Infested Beaches and other Tips
Received from Rick of Ricks Detector's...49er@thegrid.net
Hi, a quick intro first. I built my first detector from a Radio
Shack kit some 30+ years ago with my Dad. It would detect a penny
at about 3 to 4 inches max. Over the years since, my favorite detectors
included a Compass Yukon 77B, Garret ads Deep seeker, various Fisher
detectors and currently now for the last four years, the Sovereign
and Excalibur. I primarily hunt at ocean, bay and lake swimming
sites with scuba, elec. hookah, or wading gear. If conditions aren't
great I'll concentrate on my favorite rocky wet zones for digging
and sniping on bedrock for silver coins and jewelry. This will include
lots of boulder flipping. Since this is such an all consuming hobby
of mine, just ask my wife, I became a Minelab and Sun ray dealer,
which allows me to keep abreast of the latest technology and share
this hobby with my friends. Many of them are now diehard Sovereign
users. I've also gotten into cache and treasure hunting with others
of the same bent with forays into mainland Mexico and several of
our western states. Anyway, here's a few tips that I use in the
field that are worth mentioning:
1. The "bottomless bucket tool"-- Take a plastic five
gallon paint bucket, cut the bottom out and reinforce the bottom
cut edge with a 1 inch wide stainless steel band riveted in place
with flush rivets. At your favorite wet zone, when the sand is like
sponge and constantly caves on your target digs and your scoop won't
pull it out, use the bucket. Firmly press the bucket down, centered
over the target zone, until you stop on a rock or gravel layer or
the rim is flush with the
surrounding sand. Quickly scoop out wet, mushy sand with your favorite
home built scoop, I use a cut 1 gal. Clorox jug with handle intact
for mine. In about 20 seconds you will have a 2 foot hole in wet
sand that won't cave in, even when an occasional small wave wash
spills through the area. This is now usually deep enough to get
at the ring or coin no matter how mushy the surrounding sand is.
I've used this to also sample bedrock potholes for concentrated
targets where the overburden is 1 to 2 ft thick. When conditions
are right, you can find pockets with hundreds of coins, retrieve
them all without fighting the quicksand that normally floods that
dig site.
2. Pothole digs for coins and rings in the wet zone: ( If you dredge
for gold, this is like sniping or crevacing for nuggets on bedrock)
Again, when conditions are right, you can dig out deeper pockets
on the hardpan or bedrock when the sand layer is thin or washed
off from a large cut. Some of our rocky coves have had one side
stripped of all sand from a south swell surge, combined with high
tides, leaving a single layer of rocks and boulders on the bedrock
from
the low tide zone up to the bottom of the cliff face of the cove.
This distance can cover some 150 ft. or more. At low tide, you follow
the rocky ravines and trench lines moving up onto the beach and
working your way up to the cliff. Rock clumps and clusters usually
form on top of a pocket in the crevice or ravine making a natural
trap for coins and rings that settled out from the former sand layers
above. One cove had 8 ft. of sand removed down to the rock layer.
On the following weekend, we pulled 27 rings, including a diamond
wedding set from various rocky pockets. Some of the pockets yielded
200 to 300 coins each and were only 2 ft. long and about 12"
deep. I use a small 2 ft. pry bar to dislodge the wedged in rocks.
Then I quickly shovel or scoop out and sift the contents with a
small wood framed screen and pick out the coins. I metal detect
the bottom
of the pocket last to locate coins hidden in cracks on edgeand any
possible rings still lurking on the bottom. On this weekend I also
recovered over 100 silver coins from these same pockets. Within
a week, over 2 ft. of sand had returned, covering most of this site.
3. Coaxing coins from an iron laden sand pile. -- With the Sovereign,
scrub the surface slowly centering over each null in discriminate.
If the sound will chirp at all next to the iron object, it's likely
to be a coin. Even though you can't get the pitch to go up to the
same height with each pass it's still a target worth investigating.
Sometimes the iron is so thick that the coin will only give a single
burp like sound from the null area, but its still a clue that you
should listen for. My personal experience: A wet January 3 yrs ago,
at Laguna Beach, Calif., on the wooden boardwalk area adjacent to
the main beach, construction crews had started a 700 ft. reconstruction
project. In 50 ft. sections over the next 6 weeks, all the lumber
decking was repaired or replaced. Rusted bolts and washers were
torched off by the hundreds, lumber removed, and sand was shoveled
out from beneath the deck walkway to get the moisture level down
about 3 ft . lower. A sand pile soon accumulated on the beach paralleling
the construction site. During summer months, this area is usually
jammed with people sitting along the raised edge of the boardwalk
, watching the volleyball tournaments in front of them on the beach.
Thelocal detectorists sampled the growing sand pile with their pulse
machines but quickly gave up because of the abundant iron. I patiently
worked the site for 22 nightly visits of two to three hours each
time over the next month and a half. I even raked down the pile
in stages with a hoe that I modified with a 24" wide aluminum
blade. Total take was over 3,000 coins from that site, including
5 rings, numerous pocket knives, a few bracelets, and several 5
gl. buckets of trash. A few of the silver coins dated back to the
1880's, but most all of the others were clads. Even so, it was enough
to pay for another new detector. (Part if of the pile I ended up
screening because I was getting 6 or 7 coins per shovel full)
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