Minelab
Meter Plans
By Dan Clark
Disclaimer........These plans are to be used
at your own risk. I will accept no responsibility for any
damage to your detector, loss of warranty from the modifications,
or failure of the completed meter to work in the manner expected.
Parts and Supply List
1. Cen-Tech P30756 digital multimeter available at www.harbor freight.com
for $9.99 plus shipping. The link to the meter I used is here
2. Plastic sink-dishwasher waste tee.
3. 1 Shielded RCA type phono jack Radio Shack part number 274-343
4. 1 submini slide switch Radio Shack part number 275-409
5. PVC cleaner and cement.
6. 2 small screws and nuts for mounting slide switch.
7. 12" RCA type stereo patch cord.
8. RTV silicone sealant.
9. 12" thin twin lead stranded insulated wire (bell wire)
10. Two 1" #6 countersink screws and nuts.
11. Electrical tape or shrink tubing.
Tools
1. Soldering iron and solder.
2. Hack saw.
3. Needle nose pliers and wire cutters.
4. Small phillips and straight blade screwdrivers (jewelers)
5. 1/4" and 1/8" drill bits and drill.
6. Countersink bit for countersink screws.
7. File or grinder.
General Information
This meter is built using the CenTech digital VOM. It is connected
to the Minelab detector by opening the coil wire connector and adding
two leads for the voltage signal. The voltage is read by the meter
on the 20 volt scale and will read 1.80 on a silver or copper coin.
If, like me, you are a tinkerer and prefer to do things yourself this
project may be worth your while. Many of the steps taken can be eliminated
if you just want to connect the VOM leads to the VOM as provided by
CenTech and use the standard switch the unit has. I prefer the modifications
because they require less fumbling around to set up or remove the
meter.
Construction
Modifying the coil cable
The first step is to remove the coil cable plug cover exposing
the wiring connections.
See figure 1 & 2
Carefully slide the rubber boot over the connector back far
enough to expose the metal case of the connector(some liquid soap
applied to the wire may make this easier).
There are two small screws holding the cap and one holding the metal
cover to the plastic part of the connector. Remove them and
slide the metal cover back (there is a slight twist needed to do
this) exposing the solder connections.
You will need to solder two wires to the connector, use the thin
bell wire (3"). The face of the plastic connector has pin assignments
molded in it, use these to find pin 5 and 6. Connect one of
the wires to pin 5 and the other to pin 6 marking the pin 5 wire
so you can identify it later (it is the voltage lead). Route
the wires through the plugs metal cover alongside the coil wire
and through the rubber boot, replace the metal cover on the plastic
plug and replace the cap. Tighten all screws and slide the rubber
boot back over the metal cover.
Cut the plug off one end of the RCA patch cord and strip enough
of the insulation from both leads to solder to the wires from the
plug. Use tape or shrink tubing to cover the wire connections.
This completes the modifications to the Minelab for the meter connection.
Figure 1

Figure 2
On to the meter mount.
The meter mount is cut from the kitchen sink-dishwasher waste tee.
See figure 3
The blade of the mount has to be 3" from the tip to the ridge
of the pipe at the tee. It is 5/8" wide at the tip and 1 1/8"
wide at the ridge. The dishwasher tee is cut to create a flat mounting
surface.
Figure 3
Remove the two screws from the back of the meter cover and remove
the cover. Position the mount on the back of the meter cover for
best fit centering them between the cover screws. Drill two 1/8"
holes through both the mount and the back cover. Countersink
the holes on the inside of the meter cover so the two #6 countersink
screws will fit flush. Clean mating surfaces with solvent and glue
with pvc glue. Put the screws through the cover from the inside
out through the mount and put the nuts on (you may want to fashion
a spacer to fill the gap between the mount and the meter back for
strength) and tighten.
If you want to save some steps or are not comfortable with the next
steps all you need to do is connect the two meter leads to the RCA
plug from the coil cable, set the meter to the 20 volt scale and calibrate
the meter (shown later).
Meter modifications
The following meter modifications create a flat surface for the
face allowing you to put a chart on it and make room for a lead
jack and power switch.
You should still have the back of the meter off, remove the battery.
Looking at the back of the meter notice that the circuit board extends
down along the battery on the left side. You will need to cut the
heavy wire loop on this extension and cut the board extension off.
Remove the two screws holding the circuit board to the front cover.
Carefully remove the board. When removing the board be careful
not to lose the two ball bearings that make the click stop for the
dial, they are under the dial and will probably be dislocated when
removing the board. ( Figure 4). On the back of the pointer there
are 6 metal clips used to make the connection to the board, remove
them before making any changes to the dial (they can fall off while
grinding). Grind or file the pointer of the dial flush with
the outer ring of the pointer marking the pointer for the top first.
Replace the metal contactors on the dial.
Figure 4
Figure 5

Before cutting the circuit board notice where the foil runs from
the common socket to the main board and where the volt ohm amp foil
runs from the socket to the main board. Find a solder point
on each of these foil strips to connect the leads from the jack.
You will have to solder a wire to each of these locations later
for the RCA jack. Cut the heavy wire loop off at each end near the
bend and remove the center section (see figure 5). Use a knife or
hack saw blade to score the circuit board on the front and back
of the board straight along the line of the bottom of the main part
of the circuit board and snap the board extension off. The figure
6 & 7 shows the board and wire cut away.
Figure 6 &7

Now you need to make room inside the case for the jack and switch.
Use needle nose pliers to break away the two lower lead socket covers
flush with the inside of the front cover. (Figure 8)
Figure 8
Locate a position on the bottom of the meter for the RCA jack (center
of the opening left after removing board extension) and drill a
1/4" hole. (Figure 9) Mount the jack to the cover. Locate
for best fit a position for the switch on the left side of the meter
case (looking at it from the back) and drill another 1/4" hole for
the switch knob. Position the switch on the outside of the
case to align the mounting holes for the switch, be sure to allow
for the movement of the switch. Mark the mounting holes and
drill 1/8" holes for them. Position the switch on the inside
of the cover and use two screws and nuts to fasten it in place.
Figure 9 shows the location of the switch and jack as well as wiring
positions.
Figure 9
Solder one of the leads from a two inch piece of the twin lead
wire to the circuit board location identified earlier as the volt
ohm amp connection of the board and solder the other lead to the
board at the common location. Solder the volt ohm amp wire to the
center conductor of the RCA jack and the common to the shield, see
figure 10.
Figure 10
Remove the red battery wire from the circuit board and solder one
of the two leads of a 1.5" piece of the two lead wire to the board
in its place. Solder the other lead to the red wire, tape the wire
joint or cover with shrink tubing. Solder the other ends of the
two wires to the switch, one to the center the other to either of
the outside connectors.
Final assembly
Make sure the metal contactors on the dial back are in place, turn
the dial over and put the ball bearings in their sockets.
Holding the dial stationary, put the cover over it and apply slight
pressure to the dial from the inside to keep the bearings seated.
Turn the cover over and carefully replace the circuit board using
the two screws from the removal in the top two holes on the board.
Position the new on off switch in the off position and replace the
battery. Before replacing the back cover locate the small
calibrating pot at the top left of the circuit board. Locate
that position on the back cover and drill a 1/8" access hole in
the back cover. Replace the cover and secure with the two screws.
Fill the old test lead holes with RTV silicone to make the unit
more water resistant.
Final setup and calibration.
Position the meter in the Minelab mount on the top of the shaft,
connect the RCA plug from the coil wire to the jack and connect
the coil to the detector. Turn the dial pointer on the meter to
the 20 volt scale (it will be left there) and turn the meter on
with the new switch. Calibrate using a quarter over the coil.
Use a jewelers flat blade screwdriver to adjust the calibration
pot through the access hole drilled in the back of the case.
Set the meter to read 1.80 with the quarter. Use readings
from various coins and objects to make a chart for the front of
the meter and tape it over the dial pointer (this is why it was
ground flush).
I have used this setup for over a year now and have had great success
with it. The numbers are the same as with a commercial unit
and the battery lasts nearly all summer long.
If you have any trouble with this project you may contact me here.
Good luck and enjoy.
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